Night Photography & Stuff by Adam Currie

How To: Star trails – Stacking with StarTrails.exe

June 25th, 2009

How to take star trail photos like this:

St. Huberts Star Trails 2.0 Celestial Footbridge Star Trails over Portsmouth

The Camera Setup

Capturing star trails using the stacking method is much more demanding that the standard single exposure method. Mostly on your equipment, but also with the amount of work it takes to get the end result. It is usually worth it in the end though.

You should use the following settings as a guideline to get the best possible star trails:

  • Shutter speed: 30 seconds
    • You should take short 30 second exposures at regular intervals (with little gap as possible between the shots). It is advised that you a remote shutter release with the trigger locked on, and put the camera on “rapid fire” mode which will allow you to keep shooting without touching the camera for the duration of the shot.
  • Aperture: f/5.6
    • You will want to use an aperture that doesn’t let too much light in but not too little. Anywhere between f/5.6 and f/8 should be fine.
  • ISO: 800
    • Probably the most important difference here from the standard “keep the ISO as low as possible”. You will want to choose a relatively higher than normal ISO, this is because the short 30 second exposure still needs to be exposed properly. Adjust all your settings to make sure each and every shot in stack is correctly exposed. If you don’t do this important step, the end result will be dark, and not worth your time.
  • Image quality: Large JPG
    • This one is optional, but I prefer to shoot in “large jpeg” size when stacking. This makes the process a lot shorter. If you are a raw format shooter, you will find that on longer stacks (100+ shots) the process of batch exporting jpegs for the stacking software will be slow.

Of course, these settings will vary depending on the conditions, these guidelines are written assuming the sky is clear, and there is no haze which means there will be little light polution. If you require any further help on these settings, or if they aren’t working right for you leave a comment below and I will do my best to help you out.

The Software – StarTrails.exe

  • Step 1 – Load the files
    • Click on the button circled to import images
      To open the image selector, click on the button circled above.
    • select the images and click open
      Select the images you want to stack to make a star trail and then click open. This will load the images into the left-hand sidebar.
  • Step 2 – Get stacking!
    • Now you have loaded the files into StarTrails.exe, you should see something that resembles this:
    • You are very nearly done, all that’s left is the click the “Star Trails” button, circled below:

      Once you’ve clicked this button, you might want to leave the computer alone to do its thing (it’s best to leave it alone, otherwise it’s trying to do a lot at once and will slow your stack down). Go and grap a cuppa, or go and take some more photos! Of course, it’s also quite interesting to watch the software stack, StarTrails.exe will update the image shown on screen as it adds each layer fromt he selected images for stacking.
    • When the StarTrails.exe has finished its stacking, you will see the end result on screen. DO NOT close the software at this point and expect it to be saved somewhere, you must save the resulting image yourself!
    • To save the image, click the button (circled below). When prompted, save the image to your location of choice.

That’s it! One thing to note is when you save the image from StarTrails.exe the EXIF data is stripped from the resulting image. This is a small annoyance if you upload your photos to sharing sites like flickr and like to share your settings. A possible workaround for this (if you are that bothered) is to take the EXIF data from one of the stack images, and then add it to the stacked image. A bit of a fiddle, but worth it if you need it.

If you need any further help, or clarification of the above please leave me a comment below and I’ll do my best to help you out.

Comments

Anonymous
June 27th, 2009 at 3:15 am

nice tutorial man. appriciated

July 10th, 2009 at 11:53 am

IS THERE ANY WAY OF REMOVING IMAGES THAT HAVE BEEN DESTROYED BY AN IDIOT WITH A TORCH FOR EXAMPLE?

July 10th, 2009 at 12:31 pm

Thanks for the comments.

Dan – Yes there is, you have the option of dropping that frame, or editing out that part of the image in order to keep the trails without gaps. Sometimes you can get away with ditching a frame when you are shooting the pole star as movement around this area is minimal.

Oh, and Caps Lock is cruise control for cool ;-)

July 19th, 2009 at 8:24 am

Why is this method more demanding on your equipment?
and what is its advantage over leaving the shutter open for one continuous shot?

July 19th, 2009 at 11:14 am

It’s more demanding on your equipment simply because you are opening and closing the shutter hundreds of times. Also, usually you will be exposing at a high ISO, which does put a lot more strain(heat) on your camera than normal low ISO shooting. I’ve read in places that long exposures at high ISO can damage sensors and encourage hot pixels, how true this is I don’t know.

Dave Guerra
July 19th, 2009 at 8:27 pm

Thanks so much for this tutorial and software! I used to love shooting star trails with film but now that I have digital I was trying to decide on a method for accomplishing this. Once I have enough shots of the night sky I’d like to even try combining them into an animation. -Dave

July 20th, 2009 at 12:39 am

No problems, Dave.

Would be interested to see your results too!

August 5th, 2009 at 7:20 am

Some nice tutorials here!

Anonymous
September 10th, 2009 at 10:03 am

Nice tutorial Adam,
I will try this ; so you recommend MANUAL focus or AUTO focus? I guess manual makes more sense

September 10th, 2009 at 11:49 pm

Use autofocus to quickly and easily get your focus point if there is enough light. This can be done by pressing the shutter down half-way with the focus point on the camera positioned on the object you want focussed in the composition. Once auto focus says it has successfuly focussed you should then release the half-pressed button and switch to manual focus. This gives you freedom to re-shoot multiple times without having the re-focus!

Hope this makes sense. It’s late at night :D

annems
September 30th, 2009 at 8:48 pm

I am hoping to give stack shooting a try this weekend. . .weather permitting! ;) ))
have tried long exposure B4 and yes – have noted the hot sensor & pixel phenom.
I assume no mirror lock-up used, no in camera noise reduction??
I have tripod/cable release, not sure about burst/rapid fire mode though. . .using a canon 350D

September 30th, 2009 at 9:32 pm

Hi,

No mirror lockup used, noise reduction is something I never bother with as I only really do long exposures and it’s not worth loosing a tiny amount of noise and having to wait double the amount of time to see my shot. Of course that is personal preference.

With regards to the rapid fire mode, it’s selected by pressing the top button immediately to the right of the screen. You will see a timer icon next to it, click this until it shows the following icon on the top screen:

http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/8008/86199073.jpg

Hope this helps! :)

annems
September 30th, 2009 at 9:41 pm

Thanx 4 the speedy reply!
fingers XXXXXXX for good weather. . .;)

annems
September 30th, 2009 at 9:42 pm

oh – any tip on metering mode??

TRW
October 25th, 2009 at 2:34 am

What software do you recommend for Mac?

October 25th, 2009 at 9:13 am

Hi,

I can’t really say for Mac, however I beleive photoshop can do it!

Alpha Plus
November 18th, 2009 at 4:17 am

hi just wondering how you know where to point the camera to get the one star in the middle? And what time of night is it best to start (how long after sunset)?

November 22nd, 2009 at 4:32 pm

The one star in the middle will always be the North Star. To find it I usually look for the plough, AKA The Big Dipper:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Big_Dipper

If that fails, then I tend to set up a quick high ISO exposure for a few minutes then have a look at the shot, this will tell me where the North Star is because it will be the only one that hasn’t blurred.

Good luck.

Amit
January 2nd, 2010 at 9:48 am

nicely explained.. thank you for the tutorial..

http://www.shariblog.com

Leave your own comment...