Night Photography & Stuff by Adam Currie

Night Photography Tutorial: Make a car bonnet appear transparent

February 28th, 2009

In this tutorial I’m going to show you how to recreate the effect of making a car appear to have a transparent bonnet, even though it hasn’t.

Magical Transparent Bonnet

What you will need to make your own transparent bonnet shot

This tecnique is simple, yet effective. There are a few things you need to make sure you have sorted out before you attempt this, otherwise you will waste a lot of time.

Find somewhere dark
This is very important. In order to get this shot right, you will need to ensure there is little ambient light in the area you are working. Stay away from any street lights or other strong light sources. I shot the photo above near street lights and under a full moon, but I got away with that due to the darker color of the car.

Find some good light sources
This is very important. You will need an LED or traditional tungsten torch, also you will need a more dispersed light source. For this I used an “LED Halo” which is a circular ring of LEDs that cast a wide and very even spread of light. This is what caused the light trail reflections on the car’s bodywork.

A tripod and camera with long exposure support
Lots of modern cameras support long exposure, but many restrict you to 30 seconds or less without the option to open the shutter for as long as you want (Often referred to as BULB mode). It is recommended that you use a camera that supports BULB mode. As well as this, you will need a tripod.

If you are new to long exposure Night Photography check out my Night Photography tutorial.

A car
A vital component in this tutorial is a car. ;)

How It’s done


Once all the above is sorted, you can head out to your dark place and get started. One of the first things you must do is position your car where you want it. Once the car is in place, open the bonnet up.

You now need to position the camera and tripod and compose your shot. You must focus the camera at this point, before setting your tripod’s position and angle. It’s always a good idea to get a friend to hold a torch shining at a focal point on the car and focusing on that. Night time focusing has been convered in the tutorial I linked above. Don’t worry too much about the exposure settings at the moment, but get your camera set to Manual mode ready for later.

Once you have composed your shot looking through the viewfinder, ensure the tripod is locked off and steady. When looking through the viewfinder, if the bonnet when open is appearing above the horizon, or is obscuring any form of light you will need to recompose. By any form of light, I mean it. Even the light pollution in the sky from nearby street lights is enough to cause ghosting of the bonnet in the sky which is not what we want!

So now, you should have a shot composed and ready to go. The next thing that needs to be looked at is the exposure settings. Assuming you have found a relatively dark place and have full control over your exposure settings, you should use the following settings as a starting point:

Exposure length: 5 minutes (BULB Mode)
Aperture: f/8
ISO: 100

Of course, these settings are just a rough guide, but they worked for me as you can see from the photo above.

Now you are all setup, you can start the exposure. The bonnet should still be open at this point, but be ready to close it quickly during the exposure. It will not need to be up for long, and will be closed for a large part of the exposure.

Once you have started the camera exposing, grab your torch. Be careful not to get your self in the shot at this point, you can do this by making sure you are not blocking the camera’s view of the engine and by not standing still for too long.

You must now, quickly but effectively light a small portion of the car’s engine. I recommend you light just the middle part by moving the torch around the components slowly and evenly, ensuring that any parts you want lit have been hit by the torch light at some point. Once you are happy the engine has been lit properly, ensure you have turned the torch off, while at no point shining it in the direction of the camera – quickly close the bonnet. Exit the area swiftly and change over to the other light source, in my case an LED Halo.

Position the Halo or other light source in front of you, close to your chest. Walk around any parts of the car that are visible to the camera, lighting them carefully and slowly. This should be done with your back to the camera at all times, to avoid any unwanted light trails fromt he light source. You should not do this for too long, as you will overexpose the car. But it is impossible for me to tell you how long and how much you should light the car due to the amount of variables related to different light sources. I suggest you experiment and master that bit your self.

Once you have done lighting the car, leave the frame and wait behind the camera for the 5 minutes to up. This should leave you with something cool to look at. :)

If you try this technique, please post your results below via flickr or any other photo sharing website out there.

Comments

March 17th, 2009 at 6:59 pm

really interesting effect! Looks a little bit like hdr editing

April 5th, 2009 at 1:35 am

Yep, this was HDR’d in a sense. But not. Just a touch of “Shadow and highlight” tool in Photoshop.

Thanks for the comment. This blog’s comment links are nofollow BTW ;-)

Stuart Thompson
April 23rd, 2009 at 10:04 pm

Hi I took some very unusual photos with my digital camera with the self timer, I appreated completely transparent sort of ghostlike, it freaked me out a bit, but doing a search on the net and finding your site I am wondering if I accidently used the technique you’ve explained. I wonder if I could sent you a couple of these photo’s for your opinion or to confirm that I actually did what you state on this page.

Many thanks
Stuart Thompson

April 24th, 2009 at 5:13 pm

Stuart,

Send the photos to me, I’ll take a look.

July 23rd, 2009 at 12:13 pm

I finally done this after spending hours alone in a very dark wood i opted for a more well lite area and got it first go
lesson learnt long dark flat cars such as Volvos are not good for this I ended up in the end shooting my silver Mazda 5 taking 3 long exposures of about five and a half minutes each and blending them in photomatix the not getting any ghosting with the up bonnet is hardest

migz
July 27th, 2009 at 3:07 am

Do you turn on long exposure reduction during these shots?

I imagine the photo would take fairly long especially on a 5 minute exposure

July 27th, 2009 at 7:35 am

Noise reduction do you mean? I don’t use it for any of my shots as the waiting and battery wastage isn’t worth it.

October 18th, 2009 at 7:16 pm

Hello Adcuz,
great article. Im completely new to SLR photography and your articles are really helpful for me. Thanks a ton for sharing the info.
I wasn’t quite able to under stand what you mean by: “When looking through the viewfinder, if the bonnet when open is appearing above the horizon, or is obscuring any form of light you will need to recompose”. Can you please explain the horizon thing in a little more detail.

October 19th, 2009 at 12:05 am

hello Ad,
couple more questions:
1. When you say “Noise Reduction”, do you mean the feature available in the lens [Nikon calls it VR and canon IS - Image Stabilization] or is this something within the camera?

2. Can you please explain ‘strobing’. and suggest accessories needed for it? I saw your forest cones pic on flickr. Its awesome.

October 20th, 2009 at 5:50 am

Hey Bhargav,

With regards to the bonnet / horizon thing:

Basically, when the bonnet is open have a look through the viewfinder to see what the bonnet will obscure when it’s open. If there is any form of light source, or the sky then you’ll find the bonnet will show an outline where it was open for a while during the shot. I find the best way to get around this is find a nice big open area, set the tripod up so it’s nice and high and then compose the shot. The easiest way to do this is to compose with the bonnet up, so you can see where it is in relation to any light sources and the sky when setting up.

The noise reduction I am referring to is always an in camera feature, it basically removes any sensor noise that occurs on long exposures. This is only really needed when shooting higher ISOs.

Strobing is literally pressing the “test” button on a flashgun on manual mode. If you’re in the market for a flashgun be careful about which one you buy. There are plenty of good cheap used ones on ebay, but a lot of them have no manual control. You need manual control of the flashfun at the very least.

HTH

October 24th, 2009 at 8:10 am

thanks.
can you please also suggest a decent flash gun for my canon 40D. Decent because Im a bit tight on budget but then it should be suitable for night photography, I can wait for a while and buy a suitable one – btw, how much power do you need for night photography.

November 18th, 2009 at 1:05 am

hey Adam and all..
chk out–> http://www.flickr.com/photos/43738507@N06/4113827526/in/set-72157622700239469/

looking for ur comments and suggestions.

February 6th, 2011 at 6:36 am

[...] then just leave the shutter open for a lil bit then close shutter. heres a link to give more info. Night Photography Tutorial: Make a car bonnet appear transparent __________________ [...]

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